Hotels

Where I've Laid My Head

I've stayed in hundreds of hotels over thirty years of travel. These are the ones I still think about — the ones that made the trip. No sponsored stays, no press trips. Just my honest opinion.

Italy

Luxury£££££

September 2026

Villa Cimbrone, Ravello

"The most beautiful view from any bedroom I've ever slept in"

Perched above the Amalfi Coast with gardens that drop straight into the sky, Villa Cimbrone is one of those places that makes you feel you've stumbled into a dream. The rooms are grand without being stuffy, the staff are genuinely warm, and the Terrace of Infinity at dawn — before any other guest is awake — is something I will carry with me forever.

Highlights

—Terrace of Infinity at sunrise
—Garden suite with private terrace
—Breakfast served in the medieval cloister

Margaret's tip

Book the Belvedere suite if you can stretch to it. The view from the bed is worth every penny.

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Japan

Traditional£££££

July 2026

Tawaraya Ryokan, Kyoto

"The finest hospitality I have ever experienced, anywhere"

Tawaraya has been welcoming guests since 1709, and you feel every year of that history the moment you step through the gate. The tatami rooms, the kaiseki dinner served in your room, the sound of the garden at night — it is an experience entirely unlike any Western hotel. I wept a little when I left. I am not embarrassed to admit it.

Highlights

—Multi-course kaiseki dinner in your room
—Private garden with stone lanterns
—Morning tea ceremony with the innkeeper

Margaret's tip

Request the room overlooking the inner garden. And do not skip the kaiseki — it is the best meal you will eat in Kyoto.

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Morocco

Boutique££££

August 2026

Riad Kniza, Marrakech

"A sanctuary in the middle of the beautiful chaos"

Step off the frantic streets of the medina, push open an unmarked wooden door, and find yourself in a world of cool tiles, rose petals floating in a fountain, and absolute quiet. Riad Kniza is owned by a family of antique dealers and every corner is filled with extraordinary objects. The rooftop terrace at sunset, with a glass of mint tea, is one of the great pleasures of travel.

Highlights

—Rooftop terrace with medina views
—Antique-filled salons and courtyards
—Hammam and traditional massage

Margaret's tip

Ask the staff to walk you to the Djemaa el-Fna at dusk. They know the back routes and it makes all the difference.

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Portugal

Luxury£££££

March 2026

The Yeatman, Porto

"The best view of Porto is from this terrace"

Perched on the hillside in Vila Nova de Gaia, directly across the Douro from Porto's old town, The Yeatman is a wine-lover's paradise. Every room has a terrace with a view of the city. The wine cellar holds over 25,000 bottles. The spa is exceptional. My only complaint is that it makes you never want to leave the hotel — which in Porto, with so much to explore, is a genuine problem.

Highlights

—Panoramic terrace overlooking Porto
—Wine cellar with 25,000 bottles
—Michelin-starred restaurant

Margaret's tip

Book a Douro-facing room. The view of Porto's skyline at night, with the Dom Luís bridge lit up, is extraordinary.

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Greece

Luxury£££££

April 2026

Canaves Oia Epitome, Santorini

"Santorini at its most spectacular — and most honest"

I have complicated feelings about Santorini — it is overrun, overpriced, and over-photographed. And yet. The caldera view from a cave suite at Canaves Oia, with an infinity pool that seems to pour into the sea, is genuinely one of the most beautiful things I have ever seen. The hotel is small, the service is attentive, and they are honest about what Santorini is. I respect that.

Highlights

—Infinity pool with caldera views
—Cave suite carved into the cliff
—Private sunset terrace

Margaret's tip

Go in late April or early October. The light is perfect, the crowds are manageable, and the prices are slightly less eye-watering.

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Italy

Countryside££££

June 2026

Castello di Velona, Montalcino

"The Tuscany of your imagination, made real"

A medieval castle on a hilltop in the Val d'Orcia, surrounded by vineyards producing some of Italy's finest Brunello. The rooms are in the old stone towers and outbuildings, the pool looks out over the valley, and the restaurant serves food made almost entirely from what is grown on the estate. I arrived for three nights and stayed for five. I have no regrets.

Highlights

—Medieval castle with valley views
—Estate Brunello di Montalcino wine
—Thermal spa with outdoor pool

Margaret's tip

Ask for a room in the old tower. The stone walls keep it cool even in June heat, and the views are extraordinary.

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More to explore

Hungry after all that travel?

I review restaurants with the same care I give hotels. No free meals, no sponsored tables — just my honest verdict on where to eat.

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